CLASSES & EVENTS |
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Weekend Trips:
Long Weekend or more: |
MANCHESTER WALL; Downtown Richmond, VA
Distance from Peak Experiences: 11 miles
Links:
Guidebooks:
"Manchester Wall, located in the heart of Richmond, will never win any awards for aesthetics (climbing or otherwise). It is a series of old bridge abutments on the south side of the James River. Consisting of slabby to vertical walls of granite blocks and mortar, it could never be considered "natural" rock, however, the climbing is actually a lot of fun and can be quite challenging. Though Manchester Wall isn't exactly a destination climbing area, it is a great venue for training and learning the basics of outdoor climbing in a relatively safe and controlled environment. Skills such as top rope set ups, sport leading, gear placement, anchor building and even aid climbing (for that upcoming big wall trip to The Valley), are commonly practiced by local climbers here on these granite blocks."
-Cios
Rockclimbing.com - Manchester Wall page
MountainProject.com - Manchester Wall page
Manchester Wall Routes and Map [PDF] origin unknown
MOORMANS BOULDERS; outside of Charlottesville, VA
Distance from Peak Experiences: @ 80 miles
Access: Private - Open - Access Sensitive: Be low key and respectful. Be careful where parking.
Links:
Guidebooks:
"If you have to get outside and just have time for a day trip Moormans is a good little spot for bouldering. The rock in fairly slick after decades of climbing traffic, but it is fairly easy to get to."
-Brent
Rockclimbing.com - Moormans Boulders page
Virginia Climbers Guide - J.Watson (Stackpole)
OLD RAG; Shenandoah National Park, VA (Near Sperryville, VA)
Distance from Peak Experiences: @ 120 miles
Links:
Guidebooks:
"The rock climbing here is probably the best in the state, unfortunatly it has one of the longest apporaches next to McAfee's, and you will need to hike way more than just a bouldering pad. This area has great trad-lines, a little bit of top-roping and some bouldering too, best in spring and fall."
-Brent
Rockclimbing.com - Old Rag page, links to area and specific routes
MountainProject.com - Old Rag page
Virginia Climbers Guide - J.Watson (Stackpole)
Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia & Maryland - E.Horst (Falcon)
HIDDEN ROCKS; George Washington National Forest, VA (Near Harrisburg, VA)
Distance from Peak Experiences: @ 130 miles
Links:
Guidebooks:
"40ft sandstone cliffs just inside the George Washington National Forest in Rockingham County. Well shaded topropes and leads as well as bouldering on decent rock."
-from mountainproject.com
Rockclimbing.com - Hidden Rocks page
MountainProject.com - Hidden Rocks page
Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia & Maryland - E.Horst (Falcon)
GREAT FALLS NATIONAL PARK; Virginia
Distance from Peak Experiences: @ 125 miles
Links:
Guidebooks:
"At Great Falls, the Potomac River builds up speed and force as it falls over a series of steep, jagged rocks and flows through the narrow Mather Gorge. The Patowmack Canal offers a glimpse into the early history of this country. Great Falls Park has many opportunities to explore history and nature, all in a beautiful 800-acre park only 15 miles from the Nation’s Capital."
-National Park Service
NPS.GOV - National Park Service site loaded with good info
Rockclimbing.com - Areas and Routes for Great Falls
MountainProject.com - Areas and Routes for Great Falls
Climber's Guide to the Great Falls of the Potomac - P.A.T.C.
Virginia Climbers Guide - J.Watson (Stackpole)
Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia & Maryland - E.Horst (Falcon)
CARDEROCK, Maryland
Distance from Peak Experiences: @ 130 miles
Links:
Guidebooks:
"Fun, fairly easy to get to, its just of the belt way in DC, and the climbing is not to comitting, you can easily sling top-ropes on most climbs. Be warned - this area can be more crowed than any other for the same reasons. If all else fails you can take a hike down the "Billy Goat" trail."
-Brent
Rockclimbing.com - Manchester Wall page
MountainProject.com - includes a printable Mini Guide!
Carderock Past & Present - P.A.T.C.
Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia & Maryland - E.Horst (Falcon)
MCAFFEE'S KNOB; Northwest of Salem, VA off the Appalachian Trail
Distance from Peak Experiences: @ 180 miles
Links:
Guidebooks:
"The bouldering is concentrated on the top of the mountain, a one and a half hour walk from the parking area. There are some lower quality problems dotted along the walk up, the closest of which is roadside. The rock is sandstone and ranges from fantastic to sub-par. The problems that stay clean, though, are generally great quality rock."
-mountainproject.com
Rockclimbing.com - Multi route beta
MountainProject.com
Virginia Climbers Guide - J.Watson (Stackpole)
Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia & Maryland - E.Horst (Falcon)
NEW RIVER GORGE, West Virginia
Distance from Peak Experiences: @ 250 miles
The routes in the Gorge range from 5.4 to 5.14, with a good mix of sport and trad. Many areas are top-ropeable, though the ability to lead will open up a lot more terrain. The cliffs range from 30 feet to 120 feet. Most routes can be climbed with a 60 meter rope and 8–10 quickdraws, though a few routes, like Fool Effect, require up to 13 draws.
The Bridge Buttress and Junkyard Wall have a quick approach, easy access to the top of the walls, and a good range of difficulties in the climbs. Unfortunately the ease of access makes these areas a bit crowded at times. Summersville Lake is beautiful as well, with sport climbs from 5.6 to 5.13, right on the shore. Orange Oswald Wall, with most of the easiest routes, can get crowded as well.
If you are up for a little bit more of a hike there are some gems to be found. The Star Trek wall at Fern Buttress is a perfect training area for new trad climbers, especially in the summer since it stays shaded most of the day. There are 9 short climbs that range from 5.4 to 5.8+. You can also rappel into the climbs for more practice. The Orchard Wall is a little ways down from the Star Trek wall, and has some of the best 5.10 trad routes in the Gorge. Triple Treat is a classic three roof hand crack that cannot be passed up. There’s even a nice 5.8 trad route around the corner to warm up on.
If you’re looking for sport routes, wait until the weather cools down a bit and check out Endless Wall. The Fantasy Roof area has about 10 ultra-classic sport routes ranging from Aesthetica (5.11c) to Titan’s Dice (5.13). There are also some classic moderate trad routes there as well…Fantasy (5.9) and The Grafenburg Crack (5.9-) are just a short walk away. If you can’t wait until the weather cools down, check out Butcher’s Branch at Kaymoor for moderate to hard sport. There will probably be a crowd, but these routes are worth the wait. Warm up on Flight of the Gumby (5.9), and then check out about thirty of the best routes you’ll ever get on from 5.10 to 5.13.
-Keith Morton, Peak Supervisor & Routesetter
Links:
The New River Gorge is an easy, 4½ hour drive straight west on route 64. There are about 1,500 established routes in the Gorge, and about another 1,000 in the surrounding areas, including Summersville Lake and the Meadow. The mostly unspoiled wilderness is lush and beautiful, with scenic overlooks throughout the Gorge, and some lovely views at the lake. 
Most climbers stay at Roger’s (Rocky Top Retreat), which is located a bit up the road from the Kaymoor parking area. It’s a bit wild at times, but Roger can tell you anything you need to know, and give you directions to any of the climbing areas. If you’re looking for a quieter campground, check out Chestnut Creek Campground near the Bridge Buttress area.
New River Gorge; Meadow River & Summersville Lake - S. Cater (King Coal Propaganda)
New River Rock - R.Thompson (Chockstone Press)
New River Gorge; Selected Rock Climbs - S.Cater (King Coal Propaganda)
SENECA ROCKS, West Virginia
Distance from Peak Experiences: @ 195 miles
Note Seneca is an all Trad area. I don’t think there are more than a few bolt hangers and some rusty not-to-be-trusted pins; mostly located at some of the more popular rappels and (on a busy weekend) bottlenecks. There is some great top roping to be had on the Lower Slabs. Warlock and Autumn Fire, to the left of the obvious Skuttle crack, are worth doing even if you have a trad-rack in your pack. There is also some top roping available off-trail from the North Peak Forest Service Viewing platform on the east side.
However the real draw to Seneca Rocks is to cut your teeth on some Trad climbing and stand on the knife edge summit. From the summit of either peak, you get a breathtaking 1000+ foot view to the valley floor to the east and west.
Although it is pretty easy to find your way, the Seneca Climber’s Guide by Tony Barnes is a must have. Get your bearings as you arrive by stopping in The Seneca Rocks Discovery Center, staffed by Forest Service rangers who enjoy chatting about the area. Or better yet, make a new friend in the parking lot or the trail in. Seneca Climbers are known for their friendly demeanor (unless of course you try to snake ahead of the queue at 7pm on Traffic Jam ledge).
Have Fun!
-Rick Molique, Peak Staff
Links:
Seneca Rocks is a beautiful and unmistakable 900-foot fin of rock and also the name of the nearby town. Seneca Rocks is also the first National Recreation Area established by the US Congress within a National Forest, Seneca Rocks is administered by the US National Forest Service. The drive to Seneca is remarkably beautiful too, when you pull around into the German Valley (Marked by a roadsign about halfway between Seneca Rocks and Harrisonburg, Va on Rt.33) make sure you wake everyone in the car for what I think is one of the most spectacular views you can get from a paved road. 
Partner not able to dislodge a tricam you sunk in fear? Head to The Gendarme. So named for a stunning feature that fell from the summit of Seneca Rocks in 1987. Friendly staff provide a wealth of gear and good advice. You can also see a good bit of climbing history, guidebooks, self-crafted cams and pins in the “museum-like” Gendarme shelves. Totally worth a visit.
Seneca Climber’s Guide – Tony Barnes (Earthbound Sports)
BOONE, North Carolina
(Multiple Areas) Distance from Peak Experiences: @ 300 miles
The bouldering for the area is divided in to four main areas, Blowing Rock, Grandmother, Lost Cove and the 221 Boulders. To my knowledge there is no printed guide for bouldering in Boone – there has never been one and there might not ever be one. This is for numerous reasons, but there are a few websites like www.boonebouldering.com and www.rockclimbing.com that will help you get there and give you some up to date info for parking and possible access issues. Don’t be afraid to ask other climbers for info once you have made it to the boulders. Just about everybody that boulders in and around Boone as spent time climbing and not having a clue what they where on or knowing where they where, and they are usually more than happy to help you get headed in the right direction. Blowing Rock, Grandmother, and Lost Cove are all stand alone areas with numerous problems located off of the Blue Ridge Parkway. The 221 Boulders are a little different. “221” is a road that runs through Boone and winds around the Blue Ridge Parkway – along this road are small clusters of boulders that are commonly referred to as the 221 circuit. The boulders along 221 can be a single boulder just of the road or a small cluster of boulders hidden in the rhododendrons. Boone is a “locals” area and there are dozens of spots that you will never find on the internet…ever the more you climbing down there the more you will find to climb, but enough about bouldering we have bigger fish to fry.
Climbing in and around Boone is certainly not at all limited to pebble wrestling – Lynville Gorge, Table Rock, Shortoff and Ship Rock all offer amazing multi-pitch climbing. Routes here range from 5.4 to 5.12 most of which are traditionally protected. Each of the areas contain numerous areas within themselves, all and all there are 93 pages in The Climbers Guide to North Carolina dedicated to these areas. There are way too many classics here to list all of them but there are a few that have to get mentioned. Located in Lynville Gorge – on the North Carolina Wall is the Amphitheater which contains 3 totally classic routes. The Mummy 5.5 – 3 pitches, The Daddy 5.6 – 5 pitches, and The Prow 5.4 – 4 pitches all traditional protected and all worth the hike. Over on Table Rock there are again several total classics Jim Dandy 5.4 -3 pitches, Peek-A-Boo 5.5 – 3 pitches, and the Cave Route 5.5 – 3 pitches. These routes are unique (especially in NC) they have bolted anchors and some contain fully bolt protected pitches. Table Rock and Lynville are a great place to cut your teeth on multi-pitch climbing. These areas are remote, it’s over 8 miles down a fire road to the parking lot, most of the climbing areas are accessed by long – sometimes hour plus approach hikes, and typically the climbing out is easier than hiking in was…so come prepared. If all of this has you scared than Shortoff will have you running back home, it is even more remote with a significantly longer approach, but if you’re up for it you should check out Pinball Wizard 5.11 – 3 pitches. Unlike these areas Ship Rock is located just off the Blue Ridge Park Way near the Linn Cove Viaduct, and has a very short approach. If you decide to check out Ship Rock you have to get on Boardwalk 5.8 – 2 pitches and Linn Cove Lullaby 5.10a – 2 pitches.
Boone is a great little town home to Appalachian State University, which has helped the town grow and develop considerably over the years. If your in town and need or shop or forgot something Footsloggers is the best place to get climbing and outdoor gear of any sort. There are numerous great places to eat some climber favorites are Black Cat Burrito and the Mellow Mushroom Pizza. There are numerous places to camp too – one of the most popular is Grandfather Mountain Campground which hosts the Hounds Ear Competition every year. It’s about an hour farther to Boone that it is to the New River George but its worth the drive just ask anybody that’s been.
Mellow Mushroom Pizza
Black Car Burrito
Grandfather Mountain Campground
-Brent Quesenbery, Head RouteSetter at Peak
Boone is a small town located just over 300 miles southwest of Richmond. Nestled in the mountains of North Carolina it is home to an enormous amount of rock climbing. This trip can easily be made by all climbers there is a little bit for everybody. Boulders are typically the ones creating the buzz about Boone, usually in the fall when the temperature starts to drop and the Hounds Ear competition is on the horizon. You should check out www.tripplecrownbouldering.com if you don’t know what that is. 
I know all of you sport climbers have stopped reading by this point but just in case one of your bouldering buddies drag you on a trip – let them bring the pad and you can bring your quick draws. There is one small sport climbing area know as Warpin Endorphin, it is also referred to as the Dump since it is located on the uphill side of Rt. 221 from the Dump boulders, that are part of the 221 circuit. Routes here range from 5.7 to 5.13 and more specific route info can be found on www.rockclimbing.com, again there is no guide book.
957 Rivers St
Boone, NC 28607-5903
(828) 262-9801
127 South Depot St.
Boone, NC 28607
(828) 263-9511
Hwy. 105 Near Foscoe
P.O. Box 2060
Boone, NC 28607
Phone: (828) 738-1111
LINVILLE GORGE, North Carolina
Distance from Peak Experiences: @ 300 miles
Table Rock is the easiest place to get started at Linville. There is camping available near its base (permits are required) and the approach is about half a mile. The rock quality is excellent, with 60 routes ranging from 5.4 to 5.12, and heights up to 300 ft. The majority are under 5.10 making this a great training ground for new trad climbers. The routes are also engaging enough to keep more experienced climbers entertained. Check out Jim Dandy (5.5), Blood, Sweat, and Tears (5.7), and Second Stanza (5.8+). You won’t be disappointed.
If you’re looking for a bit more of that “wilderness adventure” the North Carolina Wall will give you all you can handle and more. The steep gully approach is not to be taken lightly, but with caution can be navigated pretty easily. There have also been forest fires in the area in recent years so the trail markers are a bit tough to find. Once you get to the bottom there are 90 routes from 5.4 to 5.12, ranging from 70 to 500 ft. Some of the best known routes in North Carolina lay tucked away in this area. The Prow (5.4), The Mummy (5.5), and The Daddy (5.6), are all exposed and spectacular, with great gear placements and fun climbing. The Bumblebee Buttress (5.8) will have you rethinking just what it takes to climb 5.8, with a little bit of everything needed to get to the top, and Apricot Jam (5.9+…more like 5.10) will try to crush you at the start, but then will show you some fantastic climbing up top.
This is only a small taste of what Linville has to offer. If you want to get off the beaten path and climb some of the best routes in backcountry North Carolina, then go and see for yourself what kind of adventure you can have.
-Keith Morton, Peak Supervisor & Routesetter
If you’re interested in traditional climbing and don’t mind a bit of a drive, then Linville Gorge is definitely a place you want to check out. It’s known as the Grand Canyon of the east, containing walls up to 500 ft and traversing North Carolina’s high country for 14 miles. It takes about 6 hours to get there from the Richmond area, but it’s well worth the visit. The location is so ideal to learn trad as well as experience wilderness adventure that Outward Bound has a School right in the middle of it. Green Berets also trained there in the 50s.
THE SHAWANGUNKS a.k.a."Gunks", New York
Distance from Peak Experiences: @ 420 miles
There are multiple areas, and the most popular one (The Trapps) is over 3 miles long, up to 300' high and has over 500 high quality routes.
It is rare to find 5-star routes from 5.2 (Easy Overhang, 160ft) to 5.13b (the infamous Twilight Zone) within a stones throw of each other.
It's a great place to cut your teeth on some serious exposure on all grades. Folks come from all over the world to explore the variety!
The area is protected and is a part of the Mohonk Preserve. Rangers will be at trail entry points, and although there are known ways "around" these fees. Don't do it.
The Preserve and the Rangers do a great job of protecting not just Peregrine Falcons, and rare species of plants, they are the protection for the climbers as well. Mohonk Rangers replace rotted anchors and perform climber rescues. So pay the fee and say "Thanks" too!
The Trapps is the main wall. It is located on the north side of Rt.44/55 and is the most popular area. The place to get you bearings is called
the Uberfall. It is a wide area just off 44/55 where climbers will congregate all day long to take a breather or look for a partner.
The Uberfall is the name for this area but specifically the name of an easy decent route nearby.
Also featured here are stellar routes, where, yes, for some you could probably belay from your car. The abundance of quality routes is immediately
apparent too. Bunny 5.4; Belly Roll 5.4; Horseman 5.5; Jackie 5.5; Classic 5.7; Laurel 5.7; Ken's Crack 5.7; Apoplexy 5.9;
Pink Laurel 5.5; Nosedive 5.10b; Stirrup Trouble 5.10b are all 5-Star routes and all visible from the UberFall area! So man, can it get busy.
Do your homework and hike down the carriage road to escape the crowd or just hike
across 44/55 to the Near Trapps for more spectacular climbing.
Note The Shawnagunks are all trad.
There is the occassional bolt at rap stations but don't count on it.
Bring a spare rap-ring and webbing and know how to use a trad rack when you come.
Have Fun!
-Rick Molique, Peak Staff
Links:
Forget everything you think you know about New York. Set your compass for New Paltz and explore some of the finest cragging in the east.
Nestled within the Mohonk Preserve, the Gunks jut out from the landscape just west of New Paltz.
Guidebooks:
Shawangunk Climbing Select – Dick Williams (Vulgarian Press)
Shawangunk Climbing (editions for Trapps, Near Trapps and Skytop) – Dick Williams (Vulgarian Press)
Bouldering in the Shawangunks - Ivan Greene & Marc Russo (Jefe Publications)
The Gunks Guide - Todd Swain (Falcon)
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